One Light Setup: A Photographer’s Complete Guide

Portrait photography is an art form where lighting plays a vital role in the outcome of the image. Whether you are photographing professional headshots or casual portraits of family and friends, understanding how to use light effectively is essential. While it may seem that you need a studio filled with gear to achieve professional-looking results, the truth is that stunning portraits can be created with just a single light source.

This one light portrait photography tutorial will guide you through the core concepts, creative techniques, and practical setups that use only one light to create a range of professional-quality portraits. Whether you're a beginner testing the waters or an intermediate photographer looking to refine your skills, this tutorial is designed to help you master the power of simplicity through single light portrait setups.

Why Portrait Lighting is Crucial

Lighting is not just a technical requirement in photography—it is a storytelling tool. The direction, quality, and intensity of light can dramatically change the mood, style, and emotional tone of a portrait. Light can shape a face, add dimension, emphasize features, and even tell a story about the subject. This is why mastering portrait lighting is one of the most valuable skills a photographer can develop.

One of the most effective ways to learn the foundations of lighting is by working with a single light source. This approach strips things down to the essentials and forces you to understand how light behaves, how it interacts with your subject, and how simple changes in angle or distance can produce dramatically different results.

What is a One Light Setup?

A one light setup refers to using a single primary light source to illuminate your subject. This is also called the key light or main light. While many professional shoots use multiple lights, starting with one light teaches you how to control shadows, highlight features, and work with natural contrasts without distractions from additional gear.

This one light can be anything from a professional studio strobe to an inexpensive flash or even a household lamp. What matters more than the cost or brand of the light is your understanding of how to use it effectively.

Understanding Light Placement and Its Effects

The placement of your one light in relation to your subject is a key factor in determining the final look of your image. The height, angle, and distance from the subject will all affect the direction of shadows, the softness or harshness of the light, and the emotional tone of the portrait.

For most portrait lighting setups, placing your light slightly above eye level and angled down toward your subject creates a natural and flattering effect. This mimics the way we see faces lit by the sun or ceiling lights, which is why it tends to feel more natural and pleasing to the eye.

Moving the light source closer to the subject will result in softer light, with more gradual shadow transitions. This is due to a principle known as the inverse square law, which in simple terms means that light intensity decreases rapidly as the distance from the source increases. Closer lights also appear larger relative to the subject, which further softens the quality of light.

Conversely, placing the light farther away from the subject will create a harsher effect, with more defined shadows and brighter highlights. This can be useful for certain dramatic or stylized portraits, but it is often less forgiving for general headshots or beauty work.

What Kind of Light Can You Use?

One of the great benefits of one light photography is its flexibility. You are not limited to using a specific type of light source. The only requirement is that the light can be controlled and positioned as needed. Here are common types of lights used in one light portrait setups.

Continuous Lights

These are lights that remain on constantly, such as LED panels or household lamps. The advantage of continuous lights is that you can see the effect of the light in real-time. They are great for beginners who want to experiment without needing to take multiple test shots. Continuous lights are also popular for video and hybrid photo-video shoots.

Speedlights

These are small, portable flashes that are usually mounted on the camera but can be used off-camera with wireless triggers. Speedlights are versatile, affordable, and powerful enough for most portrait needs. When used off-camera, they can be modified and shaped with a range of accessories like softboxes or umbrellas.

Studio Strobes

Studio strobes are more powerful flash units that require external power sources. They are used in professional studio environments and provide consistent, strong light output. They are ideal for situations where you need full control over exposure, color temperature, and light shaping.

Natural Light as a Single Source

In some cases, natural light can be your one light source. A window, for example, can act as a beautiful soft key light when positioned correctly. Natural light setups require careful planning since the intensity and direction can change throughout the day, but they can produce exceptional results with minimal equipment.

Modifiers for Your One Light Setup

To further control the quality, shape, and intensity of your light, you can use modifiers. Although you are working with only one light, modifiers allow you to simulate the effects of multiple lights by shaping how the light falls on your subject.

Softboxes

A softbox diffuses the light and creates a soft, even glow. It reduces harsh shadows and is ideal for portraits where flattering light is essential. They come in various shapes and sizes and are among the most common modifiers used in portrait photography.

Umbrellas

Umbrellas are a popular modifier due to their simplicity and affordability. Shoot-through umbrellas soften light by allowing it to pass through a translucent surface, while reflective umbrellas bounce light back onto the subject, usually with a broader spread.

Reflectors

Though not technically another light source, reflectors can redirect and soften the existing light. They are especially useful in one light setups to fill in shadows or add subtle highlights to the face. Reflectors come in several finishes such as white, silver, and gold, each producing a different effect.

White reflectors maintain a neutral tone and are good for soft fill. Silver reflectors provide a stronger, cooler reflection, while gold reflectors add warmth, often used in outdoor or fashion shoots to simulate sunlight.

Grids, Snoots, and Barn Doors

These tools help you control the spill and direction of light. A grid narrows the beam of light, creating a spotlight effect. A snoot directs light in a tight beam, ideal for highlighting specific features like eyes or cheekbones. Barn doors let you manually shape the beam by adjusting metal flaps attached to the light.

Advantages of One Light Photography

Using a single light for portrait photography has several advantages beyond simplicity and cost.

You are forced to learn how to control shadows, highlights, and contrasts with intention. This develops your understanding of lighting much faster than using multiple uncontrolled sources.

You eliminate the risk of mixed color temperatures which can be a common issue with multiple lights that are not color balanced. One light source ensures consistency and can be easily managed with white balance adjustments.

The setup and breakdown time is minimal, which is especially beneficial when working on location or with limited space. This makes it ideal for travel photographers, event shooters, or those working out of a home studio.

It allows for greater creative focus. Rather than juggling multiple lights, stands, and modifiers, you can concentrate on refining a single light's position, height, and distance, exploring different lighting patterns and angles.

Lighting Patterns in One Light Photography

Lighting patterns refer to the way shadows and highlights fall on your subject’s face, creating distinct visual styles. In the next section of this tutorial, we will explore 10 different lighting patterns that can be created using just one light source.

Each pattern involves a unique placement of the light and is suited for different moods, face shapes, and photographic purposes. Understanding these patterns will give you a solid toolkit for shaping light creatively and intentionally.

10 One-Light Portrait Lighting Patterns

Mastering lighting patterns gives you a strong visual language to convey different moods and highlight your subject’s features in creative ways. Let’s explore the top ten lighting patterns that work beautifully with just one light source.

1. Flat Lighting

Positioning: Light is placed directly in front of the subject’s face, slightly above eye level, and angled down gently.

Look & Mood:

  • Even lighting across the face

  • Minimal shadows

  • Very soft and flattering

Best For:

  • Beauty photography

  • Headshots

  • Subjects with wrinkles or blemishes (flattens imperfections)

Tips:
Use a large softbox or shoot-through umbrella to further soften the effect. Pair with a reflector under the chin for extra smoothness.

2. Loop Lighting

Positioning: Light is 30–45 degrees to one side of the subject and slightly above their head, aimed downward.

Look & Mood:

  • Small shadow of the nose loops down and to the side

  • Light shadow on the cheek opposite the light

  • Adds depth while staying flattering

Best For:

  • Corporate portraits

  • General portraiture

  • Medium to full-face angles

Tips:
Adjust light angle to control the size of the shadow “loop.” Too far and it becomes Rembrandt lighting; too close and it turns flat.

3. Rembrandt Lighting

Positioning: Light is placed 45–60 degrees to the side and above the subject. You’ll see a small triangle of light on the cheek opposite the light source.

Look & Mood:

  • Dramatic, moody, and artistic

  • Named after the painter Rembrandt

  • Triangle of light adds depth and contour

Best For:

  • Artistic and dramatic portraits

  • Men’s portraits

  • Black and white photography

Tips:
Perfect Rembrandt lighting requires precise placement. The triangle should not be too large or disconnected from the eye’s catchlight.

4. Split Lighting

Positioning: Light is placed directly to the side of the subject, at 90 degrees, and slightly above eye level.

Look & Mood:

  • One side of the face is fully lit, the other is in shadow

  • Very dramatic and high contrast

  • Emphasizes structure and emotion

Best For:

  • Edgy fashion or fitness portraits

  • Musicians, athletes, or character portraits

  • Creative storytelling

Tips:
Use a black flag or dark background to deepen the shadows. A silver reflector can be used on the dark side to add subtle fill if needed.

5. Butterfly Lighting (Paramount Lighting)

Positioning: Light is placed directly in front of and above the subject’s face, casting a symmetrical shadow under the nose that resembles a butterfly.

Look & Mood:

  • Glamorously smooth

  • Accentuates cheekbones and jawline

  • Clean and symmetrical

Best For:

  • Classic Hollywood glamour portraits

  • Beauty and fashion photography

  • Women’s headshots

Tips:
Often combined with a reflector or second light below the chin to reduce shadows. Ideal with a ring light or beauty dish.

6. Clamshell Lighting

Positioning: Butterfly lighting on top + reflector or second (weaker) light below the subject’s chin.

Look & Mood:

  • Very soft, almost shadowless

  • Glowing, beauty-focused light

  • Skin appears flawless and bright

Best For:

  • High-end beauty portraits

  • Magazine or commercial photography

  • Cosmetic campaigns

Tips:
Use a silver reflector below the subject's chin angled slightly upward to bounce light back. Ideal for makeup or skin-focused shoots.

7. Broad Lighting

Positioning: Subject is turned slightly away from the camera, and the light hits the side of the face that is closest to the camera.

Look & Mood:

  • Broadens the appearance of the face

  • Minimal shadows on the visible side

  • Soft and open feel

Best For:

  • Slim faces

  • Youth or school portraits

  • Friendly, approachable looks

Tips:
Avoid on round faces—it can make them appear wider. Works well with loop or Rembrandt lighting positions.

8. Short Lighting

Positioning: Subject is turned slightly away from the camera, and the light hits the side of the face that is farthest from the camera.

Look & Mood:

  • Adds dimension and drama

  • Creates slimming shadows

  • More contrast and sculpted features

Best For:

  • Round or wide faces

  • Low-key or moody portraits

  • Cinematic styles

Tips:
Use with darker backgrounds to enhance the dramatic contrast. Works beautifully with Rembrandt or loop light positioning.

9. Rim (or Edge) Lighting

Positioning: Light is placed behind the subject, off to one side, pointing toward their head/shoulders.

Look & Mood:

  • Creates a glowing outline around the subject

  • Adds separation from the background

  • Often used in silhouette or stylized portraits

Best For:

  • Backlit fashion or fitness shoots

  • Low key lighting environments

  • Dramatic, stylized images

Tips:
Use black foam board or flags to block unwanted spill on the lens. Add a front reflector if you need a little facial detail.

10. Feathered Lighting

Positioning: Light is angled slightly away from the subject, so the edge (not the center) of the beam illuminates them.

Look & Mood:

  • Incredibly soft and flattering

  • Reduces harsh hot spots

  • Subtle, professional-quality glow

Best For:

  • High-end portraits

  • Editorial or fine art styles

  • Delicate lighting control

Tips:
This technique works best with large modifiers like softboxes. It helps smooth skin and retain natural shadow falloff.

Using Shadows Creatively

In one-light photography, shadows are not just unavoidable—they are part of your creative toolkit. Instead of trying to eliminate them, learn to control and embrace shadows:

  • Shadows add depth: They create the illusion of a third dimension in your two-dimensional photo.

  • Shadows guide the eye: They help draw attention to important features like the eyes or lips.

  • Shadows create mood: Dramatic, high-contrast shadows communicate strength, mystery, or emotion.

Use reflectors or white bounce cards to control how deep or soft your shadows appear. You can also use a flag (black card) to absorb light and make shadows deeper for high-drama effects.

Background and Subject Separation

A common issue in one-light portrait setups is lack of separation between your subject and the background—especially when using dark backdrops or shooting low key.

To fix this, try the following:

  • Use a hair light: Even a simple reflector behind the subject can bounce light to add separation.

  • Adjust distance: Move your subject farther from the background to avoid spill.

  • Add a rim light: As described earlier, this light behind the subject can create a beautiful outline.

Even with one light, small positioning tricks can dramatically improve separation and clarity.

Practical One-Light Portrait Setups and Camera Settings

Now that you’ve learned the theory and lighting patterns, it’s time to bring it all together with practical, real-world setups. This section is your hands-on guide to creating professional portraits with just one light—whether you're shooting in a living room, a studio, or outside in natural light.

Basic Indoor Setup: Home or Small Studio

Equipment
One continuous light, speedlight, or strobe
Softbox or umbrella modifier
Reflector (optional, but recommended)
50mm or 85mm lens on a DSLR or mirrorless camera
Tripod (optional but helpful)

Lighting Pattern
Loop Lighting

Step-by-Step

  1. Place the light about 45° to the subject’s right or left, and slightly above eye level.

  2. Add a softbox or umbrella for diffusion.

  3. Position the reflector on the opposite side, angled to fill in shadows gently.

  4. Have the subject sit or stand about 4–6 feet from a plain wall or backdrop.

  5. Adjust the light until you see a small shadow looping down from the subject’s nose.

Camera Settings (Manual Mode)
ISO: 100–400 (depending on light power)
Aperture: f/4 to f/8
Shutter Speed: 1/125 to 1/200 sec
White Balance: Match your light (e.g., 5600K for daylight-balanced LED)

Pro Tip: Turn off overhead room lights to avoid color contamination. Control your scene entirely with your main light and reflector.

Natural Light Setup: Window as Key Light

Equipment
Large window (north-facing is ideal)
White curtain or diffusion panel (optional)
Reflector or foam board for fill

Lighting Pattern
Butterfly or Rembrandt

Step-by-Step

  1. Place your subject close to a window, facing slightly toward or away from the light.

  2. Use a sheer curtain or diffusion panel if the light is harsh.

  3. Add a reflector on the shadow side to bounce light back and soften shadows.

  4. Back your subject away from the window gradually to control contrast.

Camera Settings
ISO: 400–800
Aperture: f/2.8 to f/5.6
Shutter Speed: 1/100 sec minimum
White Balance: Set to “Daylight” or manually adjust to match window light

Pro Tip: Use a white wall opposite the window for natural fill light—it works like a giant reflector.

Outdoor Setup: One Light and Ambient Light

Equipment
One off-camera flash or strobe with wireless trigger
Softbox or beauty dish
Light stand with sandbag
Reflector (optional)
ND filter (optional for wide apertures in bright light)

Lighting Pattern
Short or Split Lighting

Step-by-Step

  1. Position your subject with the sun behind them for rim light.

  2. Set your key light in front at about 45°, angled to light the face cleanly.

  3. Use high-speed sync if your flash supports it.

  4. Adjust your flash power until the subject’s face is properly lit and balanced with the ambient background.

Camera Settings (Manual Mode)
ISO: 100
Aperture: f/2.8 to f/5.6
Shutter Speed: 1/500–1/2000 sec with HSS enabled
White Balance: Flash or custom based on your flash’s color temperature

Pro Tip: Use your camera’s histogram to avoid blowing out highlights in the sky or underexposing your subject.

Sample Setup Ideas by Mood or Use Case

High-Key Headshot (Bright and Clean)
Flat or butterfly lighting
Large softbox directly in front
Reflector below chin
White background, slightly overexposed

Moody Dramatic Portrait
Rembrandt or short lighting
Light at 45–60° and high
Dark background with minimal fill
Emphasize shadows and contour

Professional Corporate Look
Loop lighting with reflector
Keep catchlights in the eyes
Shoot at f/5.6
Neutral or clean background

Full Body Portrait in Studio
Light placed 4–6 feet from subject
Strip softbox vertically for even lighting
Flag background for control
Place subject 5+ feet from backdrop

Metering, Exposure, and Sync Tips

Light Metering: Use a handheld light meter or rely on your camera’s histogram.
Flash Sync: Don’t exceed your camera’s native sync speed unless using HSS.
Test Shots: Always check catchlights, shadow placement, and overall exposure.

Optional Enhancements with One Light

Add a white or silver reflector for soft fill.
Use colored gels over your light for creative mood or color effects.
Bounce flash off ceilings or walls to create large, soft lighting.
Create texture and drama using shadows cast by blinds, plants, or gobos.

Lens and Composition Tips

85mm is ideal for classic head-and-shoulders portraits.
50mm offers versatility for indoor or environmental portraits.
Use apertures between f/2.8 and f/5.6 for flattering depth of field.
Focus on the eyes and compose using the rule of thirds.
Ensure your key light creates clean catchlights in the eyes.

Post-Processing One-Light Portraits

Post-processing is where your one-light portrait truly comes to life. A good edit will enhance your lighting, improve skin tone, correct exposure, and give your image a professional polish without going overboard. Whether you're editing for social media, print, or client delivery, this guide will walk you through a non-destructive, natural editing workflow.

Software and File Setup

The recommended tools are Adobe Lightroom Classic or Lightroom CC for base edits, and Adobe Photoshop for advanced retouching. Optional portrait retouching plugins include Retouch4Me, Portraiture, or Frequency Separation actions. Begin by importing RAW files into Lightroom for full flexibility, creating a backup of your RAWs before editing, and using collections or albums to stay organized.

Lightroom Workflow for One-Light Portraits

Start with basic adjustments. In the Develop module, correct the exposure using the histogram as your guide. Raise shadows slightly if needed to retain detail while maintaining contrast. Set white balance according to your light source. Use the eyedropper tool on a neutral area such as a white shirt. For daylight LED, 5600K is typical; for tungsten, around 3200K. Add mild contrast (around +10 to +25) and clarity (+5 to +10), avoiding excess on faces. Use texture minimally to enhance hair or fabrics.

Tone Curve and Color Grading

For tone control, use the Tone Curve to create an S-shape that adds depth while keeping highlights and shadows intact. Adjust skin tones using the HSL panel, often reducing orange saturation and shifting the orange hue slightly for warmth or coolness. Color grading is optional, but you may tint shadows or highlights subtly for creative effect.

Local Adjustments and Sharpening

Use radial filters or brush tools for local adjustments. Lighten the face or eyes slightly, darken the background to improve separation, and gently soften harsh shadows. For sharpening, set the amount around 40, radius at 1.0, and detail at 25. Use masking to target edges only. Apply luminance noise reduction if the image was shot at higher ISO, keeping it subtle.

Photoshop Workflow (Advanced)

If further refinement is needed, especially for client delivery or large prints, move into Photoshop. For skin retouching, you can use plugins like Retouch4Me for efficient results. Alternatively, use frequency separation manually to separate tone and texture, allowing blemish correction with the Healing Brush and tone shaping with Dodge and Burn. Set Dodge and Burn exposure low (3–5%) and work gradually.

Eye and Background Enhancements

Enhance eyes by gently brightening the iris with Dodge, sharpening using a High Pass filter set to Soft Light, and whitening the sclera slightly with desaturation while avoiding an unnatural look. Clean up stray hairs with the Spot Healing Brush and fix clothing or backdrop distractions using the Patch Tool or Clone Stamp. For background cleanup, you can extend or smooth the background using Content-Aware Fill, and create a subtle vignette using a gradient or layer mask to draw attention to the subject. Once editing is complete, export as a 16-bit TIFF if returning to Lightroom, or save a JPEG at 300dpi for print or 72dpi sRGB for web use.

Consistency and Style

Maintain the character of your one-light setup. Don’t flatten shadows or remove contrast unless stylistically necessary. Use Lightroom’s Sync function to apply consistent edits across similar portraits, and always reference your favorite frame for tone and mood.

Final Thoughts

Post-processing should complement, not overshadow, your lighting work. Prioritize natural enhancements and clean adjustments to elevate your images while preserving the integrity of your one-light setup. Focus on clarity, skin tone, and atmosphere, and let your lighting direction shine through in the final result.

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