Photographing subjects who wear glasses is often a challenge even for seasoned portrait photographers. Glasses introduce complex elements to control, such as reflections, flares, and highlights. These visual distractions can interrupt the emotional impact of the portrait, reduce eye visibility, and ultimately compromise the quality of the image. Instead of asking your subject to remove their glasses—a change that can dramatically alter their appearance—it’s better to master lighting control, positioning, and camera angles to prevent issues in-camera. In this first part of our four-part series, we will focus on understanding and minimizing reflections, a key obstacle in photographing glasses successfully.
Why Reflections Are Problematic in Portraits
The eyes are essential in establishing an emotional connection in a portrait. When a viewer engages with a photograph, the first point of focus is often the subject's eyes. Reflections on glasses can block this connection, obscure expressions, and make the subject seem distant or detached. In the worst cases, the reflections fully obscure the eyes or create distracting patterns of light that dominate the composition.
This problem becomes even more noticeable in high-resolution photography. What may seem like a small glare during the session becomes a glaring distraction when the image is reviewed on a large screen or printed. And while post-processing tools are more advanced than ever, removing or correcting reflections from lenses is a time-consuming process. Editing out highlights and flares can alter skin tones, eye detail, and the overall natural look of the photo. It's always better to prevent the problem than to rely on editing later.
How Light Behavior Creates Reflections
Reflections on glasses are caused by the interaction of light with the smooth surface of the lenses. The most common problem area is the 0 to 45-degree angle in front of the subject. When a light source—whether natural or artificial—falls within this zone, it's likely to bounce directly into the camera lens via the subject’s glasses.
This problem intensifies if the light source is small and intense, such as a bare flash, or positioned close to the subject. It doesn’t take much: even a softbox or a ring light can cause unwanted reflections if placed in the wrong position relative to the glasses.
To understand this visually, imagine the lens of a pair of glasses as a mirror. If the light hits the mirror and bounces at the same angle toward your camera, it will show up in the photo. What you want instead is for the light to either diffuse around the glasses or reflect away from the camera lens entirely.
Camera Angle and Subject Positioning
One of the simplest ways to avoid reflections when photographing glasses is to change the angle between the subject and the light source. If your light source is fixed, such as a window or mounted studio light, position your subject so the light reflects away from the camera lens. Even a slight turn of the head can redirect the angle of reflection, especially when combined with camera repositioning.
It’s helpful to move yourself around the subject during the session. Take test shots from multiple angles, paying attention to where and how reflections appear. This live feedback will help you find the sweet spot where reflections disappear but the subject is still lit evenly and flatteringly.
Another helpful tactic is to ask your subject to tilt their glasses slightly by adjusting the arms on their ears. A subtle upward tilt of the frames shifts the angle of the lens downward, which can redirect reflections out of your frame while keeping the glasses aligned on the face.
Lighting Modifications to Prevent Glass Glare
Light quality and direction play a major role in managing reflections. Harsh, directional lighting from a small source or close distance is more likely to produce strong glare on glasses. Soft light, on the other hand, wraps around the face more gently and produces less intense reflections. Diffusing your light is one of the most effective strategies.
A large softbox positioned at a 45-degree angle from the subject and slightly above head height can minimize harsh glare. This classic setup not only flatters the face but also avoids direct reflection into the camera lens. If reflections persist, try moving the light slightly higher or to the side to create an angle where the reflected light bounces away from the lens.
If you're working with natural light, such as a window, sheer curtains or a white bedsheet can help diffuse the incoming light. Position your subject so they are angled slightly away from the window, rather than facing it straight on. This allows light to illuminate the face without directly bouncing off the lenses.
Using a reflector opposite your light source can also help fill in shadows without introducing additional reflection points. This is especially useful in setups where you're using one main light and want to balance out the lighting on the opposite side of the subject's face.
Importance of Real-Time Monitoring
Lighting setups can work well initially, but even minor movements by the subject can reintroduce reflections. Glasses have multiple reflective surfaces: the front and back of each lens, the frame material, and sometimes even the hinges. This makes it critical to monitor your subject's pose and head position throughout the session.
Encourage your subject to move slowly and hold positions for an extra second while you check the viewfinder or screen. Use live view or tethered shooting if available to monitor changes in real-time. Watch carefully for subtle flares or shadows creeping into the frame.
If your subject tends to move a lot, consider coaching them through minimal head movements. For example, asking them to turn slightly to their left or dip their chin just a few degrees can be enough to avoid a problematic reflection while keeping the overall pose natural.
Using Multiple Shots to Your Advantage
In portrait sessions where movement is frequent—such as candid or lifestyle photography—it’s not always possible to maintain the perfect lighting angle. In these cases, the best approach is to shoot multiple frames with slight variations in pose and positioning.
Using burst mode or taking short sequences of images as the subject shifts naturally can help you capture at least one frame with minimal reflection. Later in post-production, you can review the set and select the cleanest image or even composite two images together if necessary.
This method is particularly effective during smiling or laughing moments when spontaneous expression is more important than perfect lighting. Having options allows you to preserve the emotion of the shot without compromising on technical quality.
Polarizing Filters and Lens Coatings
A polarizing filter can help reduce reflections from certain types of lenses, particularly when shooting outdoors or using continuous lighting. However, the effectiveness varies depending on the type of glasses and the direction of the light source. Polarizers work by filtering out certain wavelengths of light, so they may remove window glare or reflections on plastic lenses,, but have limited impact with complex studio lighting setups.
Anti-reflective coatings on glasses are another factor to consider. Many prescription lenses come with these coatings by default. They reduce the amount of light bouncing off the lens surface, which helps keep the eyes visible and improves overall image clarity. If possible, ask your subject in advance whether they have anti-reflective coatings on their glasses. If they don’t, you may need to take additional steps with lighting or positioning to compensate.
When to Use Flags and Gobos
Flags and gobos are tools used to block or shape light in photography. When photographing glasses, you can use them to prevent light from directly hitting the lenses. This technique works especially well in studio environments where you have full control over your lighting.
For example, placing a small black card between your light source and the lens angle can block just enough light to eliminate the reflection without affecting overall illumination. This method requires some experimentation but can be extremely effective in fine-tuning complex lighting setups.
Preventing Eye Obstruction in Post-Processing
If a reflection or glare makes it into your final image, post-processing becomes your last resort. However, editing out reflections is challenging, especially when they cover important facial features like the eyes or eyebrows. Removing them cleanly requires advanced retouching techniques, including frequency separation, careful cloning, and often manual reconstruction of the eye area.
In general, the goal in editing should be to preserve the original light direction and catchlights as much as possible. Over-editing can lead to artificial-looking results or mismatched lighting tones across the face. A slightly visible reflection is often more acceptable than an over-smoothed or blurry eye.
Understanding how light interacts with glasses is the first and most essential step in mastering glasses in portrait photography. By carefully managing lighting angles, adjusting the subject’s pose, and using modifiers to control the light quality, you can significantly reduce the occurrence of distracting reflections. Real-time monitoring and taking multiple images with slight variations will improve your chances of capturing a clean, engaging portrait.
Avoiding Drop Shadows on the Face
In portrait photography, shadows are not just a by-product of lighting—they are an integral part of how we create mood, shape, and depth. But when photographing subjects who wear glasses, certain shadows become a problem. Drop shadows, which are the shadows cast by the glasses themselves onto the subject’s face, can interfere with clarity, especially around the eyes, which are the most expressive feature in a portrait. In this second part of our series, we’ll explore the common causes of these drop shadows and how to adjust your lighting and shooting techniques to eliminate or reduce them effectively.
What Are Drop Shadows and Why y They Matter
?Drop shadows from glasses usually appear around the eyes, nose, and upper cheeks. These shadows are formed when light hits the frame of the glasses and casts a shape onto the skin. This often happens with lighting that is too direct, too small, or placed too close to the subject without the right diffusion or positioning.
The main problem with these shadows is that they draw attention away from the eyes and can make the face appear unevenly lit. The shadows can darken one or both eyes, creating an unbalanced look that disrupts the natural feel of the portrait. Sometimes, a lens rim will create a tiny curved shadow under the eye, or the bridge of the glasses will project a harsh line over the nose.
These distractions may not be obvious on small screens or at a distance, but when the image is enlarged or printed, they become apparent. Like reflections, these shadows are also time-consuming to fix in post-production, especially if they fall across textured areas of the skin or alter the shading of the eyes.
The Physics of Drop Shadows with Glasses
To understand how to manage drop shadows, it’s important to recognize how they form. Shadows are created whenever light is blocked by an object. In this case, the glasses’ frames are the object, and the subject’s face becomes the surface receiving the shadow. The strength and direction of the light determine the length, sharpness, and position of that shadow.
When using a single light source, the shadow it casts will always fall on the opposite side of the face. The higher and closer the light is to the subject, the more dramatic the shadow becomes. If the frame of the glasses is thick or has strong temples or a prominent bridge, the shadows become even more visible.
Small hard light sources such as on-camera flash or bare strobes often make drop shadows worse. The hard light does not wrap around the face and simply casts defined shadows behind any obstacles it hits. To reduce the impact of drop shadows, a different approach to lighting is needed.
Using Two Lights to Balance Shadow Direction
One of the most reliable methods to avoid drop shadows is to use a two-light setup. This configuration balances out the shadows caused by one light source with fill light from another direction. When placed correctly, the second light fills in the shadows created by the glasses' frame, reducing contrast and softening any dark patches.
In a standard two-light setup, use your main light at about 45 degrees to one side of the subject and slightly above eye level. Then place your fill light on the opposite side at a lower intensity. This creates even illumination across the face while still maintaining a three-dimensional look.
The key is to make sure the fill light is large and soft. A softbox or umbrella can help spread the light evenly. If you don’t have a second light, a large reflector placed opposite your main light source can act as fill, bouncing light back into the shaded side of the face. This can make a surprising difference, especially with drop shadows that are subtle but still visible.
Light Positioning at Eye Level
Another approach is to position your light as close to eye level as possible. Many photographers instinctively place their key light high above the subject, especially in traditional setups like Rembrandt or butterfly lighting. While these setups work well for defining facial structure, they can cause shadows from glasses frames to fall across the eyes and cheeks.
Placing your key light at or just slightly above eye level reduces the angle at which shadows fall. This minimizes the size and impact of the shadows caused by the glasses frame. You may lose a bit of dramatic shaping with this setup, but it’s often worth it for a cleaner and more flattering portrait.
This is especially important when the subject has glasses with thick rims or decorative designs. These features can cast strong shadows even from minor angle differences. Keep your light source slightly to the side and monitor the effect on the face as you adjust.
Working with Soft Light to Diffuse Shadows
Soft light is your most powerful tool when dealing with glasses and shadows. Unlike hard light, which creates defined edges and strong shadows, soft light spreads evenly across surfaces and wraps around the subject, making shadows much less noticeable.
A large softbox, octabox, or umbrella placed relatively close to the subject will produce this effect. The closer the light source, the softer the light becomes, reducing the hardness of shadows from the glasses frame.
If you’re working with window light, you can achieve the same result by using sheer curtains or diffusion panels. These break up the direct sunlight and spread it across the room, creating a broad, even light that minimizes shadows. Angle your subject so that the light flows across the face rather than directly at it.
A large white wall can also act as a natural reflector, bouncing soft light back onto the subject. Positioning your subject near such surfaces can provide natural fill that helps reduce shadow contrast.
Avoiding Shadow Traps in Natural Light
When working outdoors or in ambient light conditions, drop shadows become harder to control. The sun is a hard light source, and when it’s high overhead, it can cast sharp shadows from glasses down the face. These shadows are particularly hard to manage without diffusion.
To prevent this, shoot during golden hour when the sun is lower in the sky. The softer light will cast longer, more diffused shadows and reduce the chance of harsh shadows from the glasses. Alternatively, position your subject in open shade or under a soft cover such as a porch or large tree. This removes the direct light and provides even lighting across the face.
Using a portable reflector outdoors is also useful. Aim it from below or from the opposite side of the sun to reflect light upward and into any shaded areas. Gold or white reflectors work best for maintaining natural tones.
Consider the Design of the Glasses
Not all glasses create the same kind of shadows. The frame design, thickness, color, and material can influence how shadows appear on the face. Thin metal frames tend to cast minimal shadows compared to thick plastic frames, especially when paired with large lenses.
If you have the opportunity to collaborate with your subject before the shoot, suggest they bring a few pairs of glasses or consider wearing thinner frames for the session. While it's not always possible to change what someone wears, especially if their glasses are essential or part of their image, it can be helpful to offer styling advice when appropriate.
Clear frames or rimless glasses often produce less noticeable shadows and reflections, which can make them more photographically forgiving. However, even these can still cause issues if lighting is not handled carefully.
Candid Portraits and Movement Challenges
In posed portraits, you have the luxury of adjusting lighting, head position, and glasses angle to eliminate shadows. But in candid or lifestyle portraits where the subject is moving naturally, the chances of unwanted shadows increase. Glasses will shift with every movement, and shadows will follow.
The best approach in these situations is to use broad, soft lighting that minimizes the formation of hard shadows regardless of movement. Keep your light source as even as possible, and avoid small lights or directional flashes. Continuous lights can be helpful here, as they allow you to see how shadows behave in real time.
Take multiple shots during moments of movement and expression. One or two frames may capture the perfect expression and angle where no distracting shadows are visible. Reviewing images on your camera during the session will help you identify problem patterns and correct them while you still have control.
What to Avoid in Shadow Management
There are some common mistakes to avoid when trying to deal with shadows from glasses. One of them is over-relying on post-processing. While editing can help fix minor shadow issues, heavy shadows that fall across the eyes or face will often require complex reconstruction techniques. It’s better to take a few extra moments during the shoot to get the lighting right than to rely on fixing it later.
Another pitfall is placing lights too low in an attempt to avoid shadows altogether. Lighting from below the subject’s face creates unnatural and unflattering shadows, sometimes called horror lighting. This method may reduce glasses shadows, but it will distort the face in unappealing ways. Instead, keep lighting at or slightly above eye level.
Lastly, avoid using only hard lights such as direct flash without diffusion. These are almost guaranteed to produce shadows and harsh highlights on any reflective surface, including glasses. Even a basic diffuser can drastically improve the quality of your light and reduce shadow problems.
Managing drop shadows in portraits of people wearing glasses requires a mix of lighting control, subject positioning, and real-time observation. The most effective results come from using soft, diffused light sources and positioning them carefully about the subject’s face. A two-light setup or the use of reflectors can help you balance shadows and achieve even, natural-looking portraits without distractions.
Controlling Specular Highlights on Frames
Portrait photography often demands the careful balancing of light, emotion, and detail. When photographing people who wear glasses, the challenges multiply. Beyond reflections and drop shadows, another frequent issue photographers face is specular highlights. These are sharp, bright glints of light that bounce off the surface of the glasses, often from the rims, hinges, or arms. In this third part of our series, we’ll explore how specular highlights occur, how to manage or prevent them, and when you might use them artistically to elevate your images.
Understanding Specular Highlights in Portraits
Specular highlights are not the same as reflections or shadows. They are small, intense points of light caused by direct reflections of the light source off a shiny surface. On glasses, these highlights usually appear on the metallic or glossy plastic parts of the frame. Unlike a diffuse reflection, which spreads light softly over a surface, specular highlights are direct and focused, often appearing as bright white spots.
In portraiture, these spots can be extremely distracting. A tiny gleam on the edge of a glasses frame can pull the viewer’s attention away from the subject’s eyes or facial expression. Depending on their placement, they may even appear like hot spots or lens flares. These issues are magnified when using strong studio lights, flashes, or shooting in bright sunlight.
While sometimes specular highlights can add a stylish gleam or catchlight-like effect, they usually need to be controlled or minimized to maintain clarity and focus in the image.
Causes of Specular Highlights on Glasses
The primary cause of specular highlights is hard, undiffused lighting. When light hits a smooth, shiny surface—such as a glossy plastic frame or metal rim—it reflects in a concentrated manner. The angle of the light, the position of the subject, and the type of frame all determine how and where these highlights show up.
Direct flash is a common culprit. On-camera flashes aimed straight at the subject tend to bounce directly off glasses and back into the camera. Even off-camera flashes, when used without diffusion or when positioned poorly, can create the same effect. Bright, continuous lights can also cause highlights if they are not softened or placed thoughtfully.
Metallic or polished surfaces reflect light more aggressively than matte finishes. Glossy black frames, chrome detailing, and coated lenses are more likely to produce specular highlights compared to matte-finished or textured frames.
Diffusing Your Light to Minimize Harsh Gleams
The most effective method to reduce specular highlights is to soften the light hitting the subject. This can be done by using a diffusion panel, softbox, umbrella, or any material that spreads and scatters light across a wider surface.
The larger the light source relative to the subject, the softer the light will be. Soft light wraps around the subject rather than hitting it directly, making it less likely to cause sharp reflections. When photographing someone with glasses, use a large softbox or umbrella placed at a 45-degree angle from the subject. This setup reduces the chance that any single point of the frame will reflect directly into the camera.
Even a simple diffuser, such as a white sheet or translucent reflector, can significantly reduce specular reflections if placed correctly between the light and the subject. This is especially useful when working with window light or portable flashes.
Adjusting Light Placement for Better Control
Light placement is just as important as diffusion. Even a soft light can create unwanted highlights if it’s angled directly at a reflective surface. When photographing glasses, avoid placing your light at angles that will bounce off the frame and straight into your lens.
One solution is to position the light slightly higher than the subject’s head and to the side, so any specular highlights that occur reflect downward or away from the camera. This also allows for natural shadows that define the face without overwhelming it with shine.
Experimenting with vertical and horizontal placement helps find the sweet spot where light still flatters the subject but avoids hitting glossy surfaces at the wrong angle. Monitor the glasses carefully as you test different positions. Sometimes a small shift—just a few inches in any direction—can eliminate a distracting gleam.
Polarizing Filters: Limited but Occasionally Useful
Polarizing filters are commonly used to reduce reflections and glare in landscape and commercial photography. In portraiture, however, their effectiveness is mixed, particularly when dealing with specular highlights on glasses.
A polarizing filter on your camera lens can sometimes help reduce bright reflections if the angle between the light source and the camera meets the required range, typically around 30 to 45 degrees. The filter works by blocking certain light waves and allowing others through, which can tone down or eliminate direct glare.
However, polarizers also reduce overall light by up to two stops, which can force adjustments to ISO or shutter speed. They can also darken shadows and affect skin tone if not used carefully. Therefore, while a polarizing filter might help in certain outdoor situations or with specific types of glasses, it’s not a reliable solution in controlled portrait lighting.
Choosing Frames That Minimize Specular Issues
As with shadows, the design and material of glasses frames influence the presence and severity of specular highlights. Frames made from matte materials or those with a textured finish reflect less light. If you’re doing a planned shoot and have influence over wardrobe and styling, consider asking the subject to bring alternative glasses, especially those with a low-shine finish.
Clear plastic frames or rimless glasses tend to produce fewer highlights and can make lighting much easier. However, this might not align with the subject’s style or everyday appearance. If you’re photographing someone for professional use or a personal brand, they may insist on wearing their usual pair. In such cases, you’ll need to adapt your lighting rather than their appearance.
Real-Time Observation During the Shoot
As with reflections and shadows, specular highlights can appear suddenly and move with even slight changes in head position or lighting angle. Watching your subject carefully during the session is crucial. Use live view or shoot tethered to a monitor when possible. These tools allow you to examine images more closely as you shoot, helping you catch and correct any issues before the session ends.
Ask your subject to hold certain positions briefly while you review the image. If a specular highlight shows up in a place that’s distracting, adjust the light, reposition the subject slightly, or modify your shooting angle. Often, just turning the head by a few degrees or lowering the chin can redirect the reflection away from the lens.
Controlling Specular Highlights in Post-Production
If you’re unable to eliminate specular highlights during the shoot, careful retouching can help minimize their impact. However, this should be a last resort. Removing highlights in post-processing is easier when they are small and fall on plain surfaces. If the highlight covers textured skin, eyes, or other detailed areas, editing becomes more complex.
Use tools like the healing brush, clone stamp, or frequency separation to carefully blend the affected area with surrounding tones. Be mindful of maintaining realistic lighting and texture. Overediting can create artificial patches or flatten areas that should have dimensionality.
In some cases, highlights can be softened rather than removed entirely. This approach preserves the natural look of the lighting while reducing the distraction. Lowering highlights in raw processing, using dodge and burn tools, or applying selective adjustments can all help reduce the visual prominence of a specular area.
Embracing Specular Highlights Creatively
While specular highlights are usually treated as problems, they can also be used intentionally to create style or visual interest. A well-placed gleam on the edge of a metal frame can add polish to a fashion portrait. In some stylized shoots, highlights can even become part of the narrative, suggesting glamour, sophistication, or energy.
When using hard light creatively, position your subject so the gleam adds a highlight that aligns with the story or aesthetic of the image. For example, a highlight across the top edge of the glasses can emphasize strong features or echo other light accents in the scene.
As with any visual element, intention is key. If the highlight supports your concept and doesn’t interfere with the emotional impact of the portrait, it can enhance the image. But if it distracts, draws the eye away from the subject, or competes with key areas like the eyes, it should be controlled or removed.
Combining Techniques for Best Results
The most effective way to control specular highlights is by combining several strategies. Start with a large, soft light source, place it at an angle that avoids direct bounce into the lens, and watch carefully as you compose your shot. Choose frame materials that work well with your lighting, or adjust your modifiers to suit the subject’s glasses.
Take multiple test shots from different angles and monitor the results closely. Use flags, scrims, and reflectors where needed to shape and direct the light. When highlights do appear, evaluate whether they can be used creatively or if they need to be addressed in-camera or in post-processing.
As with all technical aspects of portrait photography, the more experience you gain with glasses and lighting, the more confident you’ll become at anticipating problems and adjusting instinctively.
Specular highlights are one of the more subtle yet challenging obstacles when photographing people who wear glasses. These concentrated points of light can either ruin an otherwise perfect portrait or enhance it with intentional flair. By understanding how they form and how to control them through light diffusion, angle adjustment, and frame selection, you gain the power to create clean, engaging images where the viewer’s attention goes exactly where you want it.
In the final part of our series, we’ll explore how to handle candid portraits of people wearing glasses. Unlike controlled sessions, candid photography introduces constant movement, changing light, and unpredictable moments. We’ll cover how to stay alert, shoot efficiently, and adapt all the techniques you’ve learned to real-world, spontaneous scenarios.
Photographing Candid Portraits with Glasses
Candid portrait photography is one of the most rewarding but challenging styles for any photographer. Capturing genuine expressions and natural moments adds depth and authenticity to your images. But when your subject wears glasses, the complexity increases. Unlike posed sessions, candid shots offer little control over lighting, angles, or movement. The techniques explored in earlier parts of this series—such as controlling reflections, shadows, and highlights—become more difficult to manage in spontaneous environments. This final section is about how to adapt your approach to handle glasses in candid settings, whether you’re working in natural light, events, or on-the-go street photography.
The Nature of Candid Photography
Candid photography thrives on unpredictability. Whether you’re shooting at a wedding, on the street, in a café, or during an unscripted moment at home, the goal is to document life as it happens. The key to successful candid work is anticipation, fast reaction time, and a deep understanding of your environment. You don’t have the luxury of constant subject repositioning or elaborate lighting setups.
When glasses are involved, everything becomes more delicate. A fleeting moment may be perfect in expression but ruined by a lens flare, shadow, or specular reflection. Learning to work with what you’re given and maximizing your technical preparedness is essential.
Scouting and Understanding Your Lighting Environment
Before you begin shooting candidly, take time to assess your lighting conditions. Indoor environments might include overhead lights, lamps, or sunlight streaming through windows. Outdoors, you’ll deal with direct sunlight, shadows from trees or buildings, or cloudy,, diffused skies. Each scenario presents unique challenges for glasses.
Hard lighting sources increase the risk of reflections and specular highlights. Overhead lights, in particular, can cause unflattering shadows from the glasses onto the face. Knowing where these light sources are and how they behave will help you position yourself more effectively as a photographer.
If you can, take a few test shots or observe how light falls on others’ faces. Look for bright glints on frames, reflections that obscure the eyes, or hard shadows that change as people move. These visual cues prepare you to anticipate how to frame your shots when action unfolds.
Choosing the Right Angle on the Fly
Unlike posed portraits, where you have time to tweak your light and angle, in candid situations, you must move quickly. Your position relative to the subject is often the biggest determining factor in whether a reflection or shadow appears on their glasses.
Position yourself slightly to the side of the subject rather than directly in front. This not only improves the depth and composition of your image but also reduces the chance of catching a direct reflection off the lenses. Lowering your height slightly can also help avoid glare from overhead light sources.
Train yourself to watch the glasses as much as the face. A successful candid portrait depends not just on capturing emotion, but on doing so in a visually clean way. If you see a highlight creeping in or a lens reflection developing, move a few inches to either side and retake the shot from a better angle.
Using Available Light to Your Advantage
Since candid portraiture rarely includes artificial lighting setups, you’ll often rely on ambient or natural light. This can work to your advantage if you know how to manipulate available light sources.
Window light, for example, is one of the most flattering and controllable forms of natural light. Position yourself so that your subject is illuminated from the side or front, and watch for hotspots on the glasses. Shooting from a slightly off-center angle to the window can reduce glare.
When outdoors, overcast days provide excellent lighting for glasses. The diffuse clouds eliminate harsh highlights and shadows, making it easier to photograph clean facial features. On sunny days, open shade (like under trees or building overhangs) is your best friend. The light is even, soft, and helps avoid both reflections and drop shadows.
Avoid shooting directly into the sun, as this often creates uncontrollable highlights on glasses and may force your subject to squint. Instead, keep the sun behind or to the side, and use reflectors like sidewalks, light-colored walls, or your surroundings to bounce soft light back into the subject’s face.
Camera Settings That Help in Spontaneous Moments
Your camera settings in candid photography should prioritize flexibility. You’re not only trying to capture quick reactions, but also need to expose correctly, even with the lighting unpredictability that glasses can create.
Use aperture priority mode to keep your depth of field under control while letting the camera handle exposure. A wide aperture (f/2.8–f/4) will allow you to isolate your subject and blur distracting reflections in the background, although you should ensure enough depth of field to keep the eyes and glasses sharp.
Autofocus is crucial. Use continuous autofocus (AI Servo or AF-C) to track moving subjects. Focus on the eye behind the glasses, not the surface of the lens. Eye-detection autofocus has improved significantly and can often lock onto eyes even behind lenses, but always verify your shots as you go.
Shoot in RAW. Since candid moments don’t always allow time for perfect lighting, RAW gives you more flexibility in post-processing to reduce highlights, open shadows, and fix minor exposure issues caused by reflections.
Burst Shooting for Capturing the Perfect Expression
With moving subjects, small head movements can dramatically change how glasses interact with light. What may appear as a distracting reflection one second might completely vanish the next.
Use burst mode to capture a series of images quickly. As the subject turns, laughs, or shifts slightly, one frame may catch the exact moment when the eyes are fully visible, the expression is perfect, and no distracting highlights appear.
Review these bursts after the fact and look for frames where everything aligns. Shooting three or four images per gesture increases your odds of capturing one clean, emotional portrait free of visual issues from the glasses.
Interacting with Your Subject in a Natural Way
Even in candid sessions, your subject may become aware of the camera. This awareness can influence posture, head position, and expression. Rather than instructing them directly, offer light, conversational prompts to guide them toward better angles or lighting.
For example, instead of saying “turn to the side,” you might engage them in a way that naturally causes a shift in position. Ask them to talk about something meaningful or engage with someone nearby. These moments allow the subject to move organically into a better-lit or better-angled pose.
Watching for subtle changes in body language and facial direction is essential. A subject who tilts their chin up may introduce lens glare, while turning slightly left or right might eliminate it. Encourage movement and expression, but position yourself to adapt to those changes fluidly.
Editing and Curating Candid Shots with Glasses
Post-processing candid portraits comes with its challenges. Unlike staged images, candid frames often contain background distractions, uneven light, and unplanned expressions. When your subject is wearing glasses, editing decisions become even more critical.
Prioritize the eyes in your culling process. If a frame has beautiful emotion, but the glasses completely obscure the eyes with glare or darkness, it may not be usable unless heavy editing is an option. Select images where the eyes are visible and sharp.
In post-processing, begin with global adjustments to balance exposure and contrast. Then use selective tools to reduce minor reflections, soften specular highlights, or subtly lighten shadows cast by the glasses.
If the glasses are catching a small specular point on the frame, reduce its brightness or blend it into surrounding tones rather than trying to eliminate it. This keeps the image looking natural and preserves the candid feel.
Embracing the Reality of Imperfection
Candid photography isn’t about perfection—it’s about capturing authenticity. While technical clarity is important, a moment filled with genuine emotion, connection, or personality often outweighs a slight reflection or soft edge.
Don’t discard powerful frames because of minor issues with the glasses unless they completely undermine the focus of the portrait. Learn to recognize which imperfections are acceptable and which distract from the subject’s impact. Some reflections can even add to the realism or atmosphere of the image.
It’s also important to recognize that viewers may not notice the same technical details that you do as a photographer. If the image feels honest, alive, and emotionally engaging, it will resonate, even if there’s a small highlight on the corner of a frame.
Practicing with Real-World Scenarios
Improving your ability to capture candid portraits of people with glasses comes through repetition and awareness. Practice in varied environments—parks, cafes, events, homes. Work with friends or clients in natural settings, and observe how light interacts with their glasses.
Review your photos and study which combinations of light, angle, and position worked best. Build muscle memory around recognizing problem lighting and adjusting on instinct. Over time, your eye will develop the sensitivity to spot potential issues before you press the shutter.
This skill becomes especially important for event photographers, street shooters, and documentary creators. Being able to handle glasses on the go sets you apart from others and increases the quality of your storytelling.
Final Thoughts
Photographing people who wear glasses adds an extra layer of challenge to an already nuanced art form. When working in candid situations, where the photographer’s control is limited, it becomes even more crucial to think ahead, move intentionally, and respond in real time.
By applying the techniques from all four parts of this series—managing reflections, avoiding drop shadows, controlling specular highlights, and staying alert during candid moments—you’ll be equipped to handle nearly every lighting and composition scenario involving glasses. What once felt like a frustrating obstacle will become a creative puzzle you can solve with confidence.
Remember, at the heart of every portrait is the connection between subject and viewer. Glasses are not a barrier—they are simply a detail to manage with care, so the emotion, story, and humanity of your subject can shine through.